WILLIAM BOSTWICK ATTEMPTS TO REENGINEER ALLAGASH’S SPONTANEOUS FERMENTED BEER “RESURGAM”… IN HIS DIRTY KITCHEN. READ ABOUT IT IN WIRED’S APRIL ISSUE!
…on newsstands everywhere March 31
Inside Allagash Brewing Company’s gleaming fluorescent-lit beer factor, a heavy door leads into a climate-controlled room lined with barrels full of aging beer. Past those barrels, behind a second, smaller door, is one of craft brewing’s most sacred spaces. Enter Resurgam–Latin for “I shall rise again”–complex and graceful, it is in the category of rare brews that represent a style of beer that’s flatly, even belittlingly, called sour.
From importing the critters (read: bugs) that make a farmhouse beer taste like, well, farm, to steeping cracked grain on a soup pot on his stove, William Bostwick attempts to reengineer Allagash’s spontaneous fermented beer, Resurgam, in his dirty kitchen. After a full year of fermentation in Bostwick’s pantry, this first attempt was a fail: “It was terrible. This was liquid fire–it actually hurt to drink”. The second attempt, using sourdough starter, was more successful: “It was a fine beer, stress-free to make and refreshing–bready and light, with the crunchy snap of a good loaf.”
Parts of Bostwick’s article appear in his book “The Brewers Tale”, available now: http://www.amazon.com/The-Brewers-Tale-History-According/dp/0393239144
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